Quesadilla La Reina Del Sur Difference Between Sunny Side Up and Over Easy

As tourism returns to Nicaragua, this colourful little surf town remains a popular stop on the backpacker trail. With advice on the best things to do in San Juan del Sur, learning to surf, where to eat, stay and party, plan your visit with our personal travel guide.

When it comes to tourism in Nicaragua, San Juan del Sur has long been the poster-child.

For backpackers heading north through Central America, it's usually the first stop after Costa Rica - with the heat and the hassle from the border crossing at Peñas Blancas providing a suitably hectic, exciting transition between the two countries. For other travellers, largely North Americans, it's increasingly more of a destination in and of itself for a couple of weeks or a couple of months given the world-class Pacific surf and beaches only a short ride along the coast, coupled with the increasing infrastructure for digital nomads & remote-workers.

Why then were we both so reluctant to come back?

Emily had visited twice before - first when the roads here were still dusty and then on our two-year budget trip through Latin America back in 2014/5 - and the fact we'd had no interest in joining the notorious 'Sunday Funday' shenanigans back then meant returning seven years later didn't seem to be essential.

However, the main reason the other half of Along Dusty Roads had been reluctant to even include San Juan del Sur on our return to Nicaragua was due to a fear of what it may have become: a town of cheap shots and super-sized bar crawls where only the young, the single, and the hedonistic should stop off.

Yet, after three weeks of nature and hiking doing in Costa Rica, we both craved the beautiful beaches of the Emerald coast, a social vibe, and the chance to surf - all at a significantly lower price point than the country from which we'd just left. Crossing the border, it seemed a return to San Juan del Sur was the only choice to make.

It transpired that things had indeed changed here - quite a bit in fact - but for reasons that had nothing to do with budget backpacker bar crawls and oversubscribed pool parties.

Instead, it was the impact of two crises: one global, the other domestic. The widescale anti-government protests of 2018, and the hardline crackdown that followed, brought instability, arrests and sanctions; it also effectively shut Nicaragua down to outsiders for a year and ravaged the tourism industry which was in its nascent boom years (though the country has long been a Central America stalwart for backpackers and surfers).

Not long after Nicaragua began to open up again, the big-C hit and most of the world stopped travelling for two years.

It was like pouring gasoline on a burning house.

With two major crises to weather alongside lingering political instability, much of the foreign investment and those who had speculated on the 'boom' of 2017, fled. Bankrupt businesses shuttered or were bought on the cheap, ghosts hostels and hotels lay empty with owners unable to sell, the economy of any place dependent on outsiders nosedived, with the livelihoods of locals working in the tourism industry most affected.

And this is why, returning in early 2022, San Juan del Sur was a very different beach town from the one we thought it might have become.

Some of it has absolutely been for the better: the local community is more present and the balance of 'who this town is for' has tipped back in their favour. Domestic tourism, which staved off some of the worst of the hardships, is also much more prevalent.

Yet whilst there are several excellent cafes, restaurants, and surf shops old and new, some of our favourites are no longer around, and a distinct lack of backpackers meant the vibe we were hoping to come across after three weeks of outdoor pursuits and early mornings in Costa Rica, simply wasn't there.

Another key factor in the town's evolving atmosphere appeared to be the growth of the fantastic Playa Maderas - only a 20-minute dusty, bumpy road away - meaning SJDS is less the town that travellers, digital nomads, and surfers stay in to head out elsewhere during the day, and more one that people stay outside and head in to for the vibrant nightlife by the beach. In their place, the majority seemed to be ex-pats or quasi-residents from North America patronising the handful of core drinking holes, the aesthetic and approach of several seem to be transplanted lock, stock, and barrel from downtown Toronto.

At least, that's what we felt in early 2022.

This introduction, dear traveller, is not to put you off San Juan del Sur in any way, shape, or form; it's simply to give you the essential context. In its recalibration, there will likely be more business opening up or changing hands in the months to come, and much may change as tourism levels return to the levels of old. In the meantime, should you still consider a few days or longer in around San Juan del Sur as you begin or end you Nicaraguan travels? For us, the answer is yes, but the length and extent depends more on your personal travel style and budget than it once did.

In this guide, we've shared everything you need to know to plan for San Juan del Sur, including the best things to do, which beaches to day trip to, the best time to visit, where to eat, stay, shop and find the best nightlife (including that aforementioned notorious Sunday Funday - yep, it survived!), plus advice on transport connections and tips to help you travel better.

Things to Do in San Juan del Sur

SURF, SURF AND SAN JUAN DEL SURF SOME MORE

Whether you're a beginner who has never caught a wave, or a pro who travels the world for them, the coastline of Nicaragua's Rivas province - stretching all the way from Playa Manzanillo in the south, to Popoyo in the north - is famous for its incredible year-round surf.

And San Juan del Sur is in the centre of it all!

For intermediate or advanced surfers that fly in solely for the waves, San Juan del Sur may not be the best base, but for backpackers who are keen for a few lessons before heading further north or south in Nicaragua, this buzzing beach town is a great place to hook up with a surf school or grab one of the many daily shuttles along the coast. Note that you don't actually surf the waves in the town's beach, but head out to one of the nearby beaches.

There can seem to be a somewhat overwhelming number of surf schools and surfboard rental companies in town, but as they're all in competition with each other, the prices are fairly consistent whoever you choose to go with.

Surfboard Rental | Expect to pay around $10 USD for a day's board rental. Do note that the boards are often not in the best of condition and we have heard stories of companies charging for dings that were already present - may be worth taking pictures of any significant damage before leaving the shop.

If you're renting for more than a day, be sure to enquire about a discount on the daily price.

Surf Lessons | There are a handful of schools charging $30 USD for a 1.5 hour group class, but the vast majority charge $25. This should always include transport to and from the beach, and groups are usually between three and five people.

As mentioned, you can't walk down a street in San Juan del Sur without passing at least a couple of surf shops or schools, but a few recommended include:

Alex's Surf School (maps) | Offering lessons and boards rental, they also sell brand new boards. Find more details on their website.

Beyond The Dream Surf (maps) | Offer lessons, surfboard rental and beach shuttles, as well as accommodation for surfers. Find more details on their website.

Arena Caliente (maps) | One of SJDS's longest running surf schools they offer lessons as well as sport fishing tours. Find more details on their website.

Casa Oro | Home to the town's most popular beach shuttle service, they also offer surf lessons (and include full day board rental in the price). Find more details here.

Good Times Surf Shop (maps). Another of the town's longer-running companies, they offer lessons, board rental and a shuttle service.

SJDS Surf & Sport (maps). Offer surf lessons as well as surf trips by boat for the more experienced. Find more details on their website.

Tribu Surf (maps). One of the newer surf schools, they offer lessons to both adults and kids (although they're more expensive than most places) as well as all-inclusive surf schools. Find more details on their website.

Coconut Surf (maps) | Located in a residential area of SJDS, Coconut Surf specialises in accommodation and surf schools but also offers board hire. Find out more on their website.

SPEND THE AFTERNOON AT THE LOCAL BEACH

Often overlooked in search of surf breaks further south or north, for those happy to enjoy a beach day without a board, San Juan Del Sur actually has a pretty nice stretch of sand! In fact, we think it's massively underrated due to the number of remote spots elsewhere on the Emerald coast.

Wide and long, it's home to tourists and sun bathers, sight-seeing boats and small fishing vessels, mesmeric crescent waves, the young playing football and the older walking hand in hand. A community beach with small waves and calm waters, its size (way bigger than any beach near here) means that no matter how busy San Juan Del Sur becomes, it will never feel overwhelming full.

Despite the bay also operating as the town's harbour, the water remains pleasant, and if you pick a spot towards the north section of the beach, you'll barely notice the boats at all.

You will find countless restaurants backing the beach, many renting out parasols and sunbeds (either for free for customers or for a fee), beach vendors, toilet facilities and you're only a few minutes walk into the centre of town. The Beach House (maps) was a popular option.

HIRE SOME WHEELS AND EXPLORE THE COAST

As we mentioned, whilst the local beach is absolutely fine for a few hours of sun, if San Juan del Sur is to be your base along this section of coast, we'd highly recommend heading north or south for the day to check out some of the area's beast beaches.

Which you settle on will depend very much upon whether you surf (and how well), how remote you like your beaches, and how much effort you feel like going to to reach them.

To help you make the decision, we've written an entire guide on the best San Juan del Sur beaches, with rough overview below of some of the most popular:

Playa Maderas

Challenging SJDS to be the favourite base of travellers along this section of the coast, Playa Maderas is a great place to surf (or learn to surf) as well as just chill out - and a must visit either on a day trip from San Juan del Sur or for a few days by itself. This is the place that more and more backpackers and digital nomads are basing themselves in now, and we've written this entire guide to Playa Maderas with all the details.

Playa El Yankee

An excellent choice for two types of people: surfers and those that enjoy isolated beaches. Whilst we are in no way, shape or form qualified to give surfing advice to anybody beyond beginners, we do know that the wide, wild stretch of pale sand that is Playa Yankee is a favourite spot amongst more experienced surfers who rock up in their pick-up trucks for the day.

And for those that simply want to enjoy being alone, well, from our explorations, there are few San Juan Del Sur beaches that offer up as remote a vibe as this!

Playa El Remanso

The closest surfing beach to San Juan Del Sur, the charming cove of Playa El Remanso is known as a great spot for beginners to find their feet amongst the waves and is a favourite amongst locals on their day off. At just 300m long, it's a small beach and its close proximity to SJDS means it can get really busy at weekends.

Playa Hermosa

One of the most popular beaches to visit from San Juan Del Sur, Hermosa offers a wide expanse of white sand which stretches along the coast for miles; it's an ideal place to spend the entire day. The only catch is that as the beach is technically private (owned by Playa Hermosa Ecolodge), you need to pay a cover charge of $3 USD per person to access it. In return, you can use all the lodge facilities including the bar/restaurant, shower & toilets plus sun loungers, hammocks and thatched palapas.

The waves here are usually quite small and as such provide a great safe place to learn; you can rent a board and they also offer lessons.

Read more in our guide to the best San Juan del Sur beaches, and find information on motorbike / ATV rental near the end of this post.

A Tour To See Sea Turtles Nesting

Whilst most people that visit San Juan del Sur do so for beach days and surfing, there's one particular stretch of sand that offers an entirely different experience - Playa La Flor.

Located around twenty kilometres south of SJDS, this beautiful stretch of sand is actually a wildlife reserve, set up to protect the more than 100,000 Olive Ridley sea turtles that arrive to nest each year.

This process of mass-synchronised nesting - also known as an arribada - takes place seven times a year between the months of July and January and should you happen to be visiting Nicaragua at this time of year, it's possible to visit Playa La Flor Wildlife Reserve on a nighttime tour to witness the incredible process yourself!

Tours can be booked through agencies or hostels in and around San Juan Del Sur (around $30 USD per person), and there's also an additional entry fee of C$200 per person which goes towards conservation. Be sure to engage in this activity responsibly, causing no harm to the turtles and not getting in the way of their nesting process. It's on all of us to spread responsible tourism practises around wildlife, so feel free to educate anyone who is acting like a dick.

You can read more about Playa La Flor in our guide to San Juan del Sur's beaches.

Top tip | San Juan del Sur is also a great place to see marine life in its natural habitat, with humpback whales visiting the bay between the months of November and March in to feed and mate, and dolphins being a likely presence for most of the year! We didn't head out on a tour ourselves (having not long had an incredible whale watching experience in Uvita), but were offered the opportunity by a number of fisherman/guys with boats on the beach. As far as we are aware, the tours leave between 6 am and 8 am from the pier and price depends upon number of people. If you happen to experience this activity, we'd love to hear from you!

Find Your Zen

Visit any beach town in Central America, and you will soon discover a variety of yoga school, classes and camps.

San Juan del Sur is no exception, with various options in the centre of town, as well as further out east, and along the coast.

Zen Yoga | The town's foremost yoga school, they offer a variety of drop-in classes (see timetable here) for $10 USD or alternatively, if you're going to be in town for a while, you can buy a package. They also offer retreats. Find them here on Google Maps.

Casa Oro | One of San Juan del Sur's most popular hostels, they also offer yoga classes on a donation basis.

TreeCasa | If you're keen to stay somewhere that puts yoga and a holistic lifestyle at the forefront, consider Treecasa. They have the most stunning yoga deck where classes take place, and also offer teacher training course. You can read more about them here.

TAKE IN THE SUNSET AT CRISTO MISERICORDIA

Located a couple of kilometres out of town, and perched atop a hill, the 25-metre high Cristo de la Misericordia (one of the tallest statues of Jesus in the world) offers exceptional sweeping views over Playa San Juan del Sur, the hills and the ocean beyond.

It's possible to hike up here at any point throughout the day, but we'd highly recommend timing your visit with the setting sun, to watch daylight fade and sky turn to gold.

Do note that this is a popular sunset location, and if visiting on the weekend you should plan on arriving with plenty of time to scope our your spot - or you may end up poking your camera over somebody's shoulder!

How to Get to Cristo de la Misericordia | The walk from the centre of San Juan del Sur will take between 45 minutes and an hour, depending how quickly you walk.

You can find the mirador here on Google Maps. To reach it simply begin walking north along the beach, taking either this exit out or this one, to join a road lined by some of San Juan del Sur's fancier properties and hotels (most of which were listed for sale). Follow this until you hit a sign for Cristo de la Miseriacordia, where you'll notice that the road becomes very steep. From here it's around a further 15-minute walk to the small carpark, and then an even steeper set of concrete stairs to the entrance.

You can also get a taxi to take you up / down.

Time required | About 2 hours.

Opening Hours | The sign just before the entrance states the opening hours to be 8am to 5pm, however, given that hiking up here for sunset is one of the most popular things to do in San Juan del Sur, we think it's fair to say that this is incorrect. Indeed, they were still accepting and charging entries when we left at 6 pm (after the sun had set)

Cost | At the top of the steep stairs, you will find a gate manned by one or two members of staff; entry is $1 per person for locals, and $2 per person for foreigners. They also sell water and soft drinks.

Tip | Note that the darkness falls very quickly after the sunset (obvious point, but bears mentioning here) so if by yourself or in a small group, we'd advise leaving sooner rather than later to avoid having to complete the walk back into town in the pitch dark. This is especially relevant if you have lots of valuables / camera gear with you - we encountered no problems, but did feel a little uncomfortable and more aware of surroundings in certain parts.

GO WILD AT SUNDAY FUNDAY

If you haven't already heard of it, then very quickly into your trip you'll begin to see the signs – the promotional vests sported by those who survived, the competitive story-telling of crazy times had, and maybe even the occasional war-wound from a poolside misadventure.

Whilst it may not yet be back to pre-2018 levels of hedonism, for the younger traveller, Sunday Funday is still very much part of the must-do Nicaraguan backpacker circuit. In fact, for some of your reading this post, it may be the only reason San Juan del Sur is on your itinerary at all.

For those yet to be introduced to this Nica institution, Sunday Funday is essentially a day of pool parties and balls-out alcohol excess, complete with DJs, drinking games and plenty of debauchery. Beginning in Hostel Pachamama, it travels from one hostel to the next before concluding at the town's biggest nightclub, Arribas.

Tickets cost a slightly budget-busting $30 USD per person which includes a shot at each hostel, transport between venues and one of those promotional vests we mentioned earlier - but all other additional drinks will need to bought separately.

As we're a couple and have a combined age of, well, let's say 'not that young', during our first visit to San Juan del Sur, we 'ummed' and 'aaahed' for a long time about whether we fit the demographic for this huge frat-house style party.

Ultimately, it was too much for our meagre backpacker budget on that trip. And our second time in SJDS…well, by then we'd definitely become too old.

The Details | Sunday Funday begins at Hostel Pachamama (it's the main host), and if staying there tickets are half price - that's $15 USD per person. Whether you're a guest or not, tickets can be bought directly from the hostel from 10.30 am on the Sunday.

Alternatively, you can buy tickets online by following the link on their instagram page.

If you don't want to join it but fancy a night out dancing until the wee small hours, just head along to Arribas and/or Sunny Beach Beach in the evening.

LEARN SPANISH

Whilst you can absolutely get about in Central America without a good level of Spanish, we can't stress enough how much learning even a little of the language will enrich your experience, strengthen your connections and improve your understanding of the country's you're passing through.

For those beginning a trip in Panama or Costa Rica, where prices are significantly higher, Nicaragua, and San Juan del Sur in particular, will be the first place where you can find a language school that won't break your budget.

There are several Spanish language learning schools in town, all of which offer a variety of class sizes and hours of tuition per week. A standard week (20 hours) of one-on-one tuition costs between $125 and $200 USD. All can be arranged online in advance, but you may get a better rate if you visit them in person upon arriving in San Juan del Sur.

San Juan del Sur Spanish School - visit their website.
Spanish Ya. Find them here on Google Maps, or visit their website.
Lago Azul. Find them here on Google Maps, or visit their website.
Spanish Corner School. This is the cheapest school in town - find them here on Google Maps, or visit their website.

Additionally, these schools are also able to organise a homestay for the duration of you tuition meaning you get to jump start your learning whilst helping to support a local family. Win-win.

Where to Eat, Drink & Work in San Juan del Sur

The Art Warehouse | Decent local coffee, good veggie/vegan options for breakfast and lunch and healthy bowls, in a stylised setting. If we're completely honest, our food fell a little below our expectations but overall a really great option if you're having a work day or spending a slow morning planning. Find it here.

La Tostaderia | A hotel and cafe within the grand walls of a blue and white colonial building that served us the best coffee in town. The breakfasts are excellently, hearty and international although prices are on the more expensive side. A good place to work providing you don't need super fast wifi. Find it here. San Juan Surf, a few doors along from the really cool local's pool hall Av. Vanderbuilt, also does good coffee but only has a few stools at the window.

Simon Says | Healthy food options served up in a gorgeous little garden. Serve food all day but ideal for breakfast or brunch! Find it here.

Pizzeria La Vecchia Signora | Owned by an Italian (and a big Juve fan - hence the vintage merchandise that adorns the walls), this place offers some of the best, and most authentic pizzas we've eaten in Latin America. Can be pricey if you have too many toppings, but otherwise well priced too. Find it here.

Ding Repair Cafe | Gorgeous contemporary aesthetic, super healthy plant-based foods, incredible juices and good coffee - a great spot to feed your soul or catch up on some work. Do note that the price point is a little on the high side. Find it here.

Nacho | Come for the cheap tacos, stay for the strong (and huge!) margaritas. Canadian owned, they're open all day but particularly lively in the later evening. Don't miss Taco Tuesday where it's C$35 a taco! Find it here.

San Juan Del Sur Cerveceria | Another Canadian run place, this local craft beer bar (all of which is brewed in SJDS) offers an alternative to those seeking a break from Toña. Offers up quintessentially North American bar foods to alongside their selection. Find it here.

The Best Hamburger | Aside from them having very little to offer vegetarians, this remains a super popular burger place with full tables every night. If you're a meat eater, we'd definitely give it a go! Find it here.

Taco Spot | One of those places that we include in a where to eat list just so we can tell you not to eat there! It seems like a local run place and is popular, but the food here was so overpriced and was really quite disappointing (a veggie quesadilla that was mostly based around raw celery does not a quesadilla make!). Find it here.

Pan Frances | If you've been in Central America for a few weeks, you've probably noticed that the bread here is super sweet and generally a bit crap. So when we spot places like this that bake bread which is as close to authentic French offerings as the ingredients allow, we make a note of it. Also do lovely looking cakes! Find it here.

La Reina del Sur | A traditional Nica restaurant, this is a great place to come to have a good fill and save a bit of cash. Offering a buffet for C$100 or tacos for C$50. Find it here.

The Central Market | The ultimate in value and experience, having a couple of meals in the market or any little comedor will save you a fortune - plus, by eating here you're directly supporting the local economy. Find it here - the pink building opposite where the buses to Rivas depart.

Other blog posts may refer to Gato Negro. We loved this place last time we visited, but alas it has been shut down for a few years. There are also a bunch of restaurants and bars lining the Paseo del Rey, the street running parallel to the beach, ranging from the rather fancy to the not so fancy.

Where to Stay in San Juan del Sur

Despite having fought their way through a political crisis and a global pandemic, there are a surprisingly large number of accommodations in San Juan del - including many that were there the first time we visited in 2014.

The most important thing we need to note about finding a place to stay, is that if you are arriving on the weekend and want to stay in a private room (that is, anything other than a shared dorm), it is essential that you make a reservation in advance.

We arrived on a fairly non-descript Friday, assuming we would be able to find a decent double that evening. Fast forward two hours, and we were still wandering the streets having only seen rooms that we would have turned down on when we were on a super tight budget all those years ago.

Thankfully our determination paid off, and we eventually found a perfectly nice room in a guesthouse for a few nights. Loads of Nicaraguans head from the cities to San Juan del Sur for a weekend at the beach, so don't make the same mistake as us!

We've curates the best options for every travel style and budget below - we hope you find somewhere perfect!

Hotels, Guesthouses & Resorts

The two most luxurious places to stay in San Juan del Sur are Hotel Alcazar (a 4* hotel), and La Santa Maria Resort, offering a selection of boutique villas. Definitely not backpacker appropriate, but worth noting in this article.

Tapihouse, a guesthouse with on-site bar is relatively basic but clean, comfortable and well priced.

Apartments, Houses & Airbnbs

Given San Juan del Sur's burgeoning reputation as a holiday destination for North American's, it should come as little surprise that there is an abundance of vacation properties suitable for both couples and families large and small.

For the purposes of this article, we have focussed predominantly on smaller properties (studios and one-bedrooms) but have included a couple of three and two-bedroom accommodations as well.

Bayview | This remarkably well-priced one-bedroom stone cabana, set within lush gardens, offers a nature retreat jut a few hundred metres from the centre of town and the beach. Find out more here.

Casa MA | This beautiful three-bedroom condo is super modern, with incredible views and access to a large communal pool (shared only with the other guests in the building), just a short walk into the centre of SJDS and the beach. It has really excellent reviews! Find out more here.

Condito Mapache | A large, stylish and modern studio filled with handcrafted Nicaraguan furniture, tiles and textiles located just steps from town and the beach. Has small balcony and access to communal pool. Find out more here.

Oceanview Studio | The perfect option for those wanting their own space on a budget in the centre of SJDS. Nothing fancy, but has good-sized private balcony with sea views and great reviews. Check prices and availability here.

This two-bedroom apartment - also in the town centre - is another excellent budget option.

Santa Cruz Loft | One of the pricier options on this list, but this modern two bedroom loft style condo is too gorgeous not to include. Set on a hill overlooking the town (but still an easy walk in), the views are incredible and it even has a small private pool! Find out more here.

This two-bed Vacation Villa is at a similar price point, and whilst an entirely different aesthetic, is similarly stunning.

Hostels

Saltwater Hostel | Located up a hill a short walk from the centre of SJDS (meaning incredible views and epic sunsets), the reviews for this chilled hostel are outstanding. Cosy common areas, guest kitchen (as well as home cooked meals), great staff and three resident doggies. Check availability and prices here.

Casa Romano | This small family-owned hostel is where we stayed the first time we visited San Juan del Sur - and it's still got great reviews! Definitely not a party hostel, it has a good guest kitchen and decent rooms. You unfortunately can't currently book this hostel online, so instead find it here on Google Maps.

Hostel Pachamama | One of San Juan del Sur's veteran party hostels, and host of the notorious Sunday Funday - think pool parties, drinking games and young backpackers. Offers private rooms, dorms and a guest kitchen. Find out more here.

A little out of the way, at the north of the beach, a hostel with similar vibes and a long-standing reputation is Hola Ola. Single travellers speak highly of all the activities on offer.

It's a little out of the way, but if the idea of staying in a beautiful half hostel / half resort, eco surf camp in the forest sounds up your street, Dreamsea Surf Camp looks bloody gorgeous! Alternatively, consider The Space, a new boutique hostel offering a bouji experience for the more discerning traveller. Beautiful pool, common areas and large rooms - only issue is that it's not walkable from SJDS but they do have a shuttle. Note that it's on the pricier side.

Hostel Esperanza | Located across the road from the beach, this locally-owned and budget friendly hostel is chilled, excellent value for money and offers really good-sized private rooms (as well as dorms). Check prices and availability here.

Casa Oro | The longest running hostel in SJDS, with a strong eco focus and great community drive. They're also super centrally located. They also offer the most consistently running beach shuttle in town, so worth staying if you're a surfer who doesn't want to base themselves in Playa Maderas. Find out more here.

How to Get to San Juan del Sur

From Ometepe

After taking the ferry from Moyogalpa in Ometepe to San Jorge, you'll need to make your way to Rivas.

There is a bus that travels this route, departing from the port at a cost of C$10 per person (15-minutes journey time), but the timetable can be a bit sporadic and there are NO buses on Sunday.

Alternatively, and the option most people opt for, is to jump in one of the colectivo taxis that will be waiting outside the gates to the ferry terminal. These cost C$30 per person and leave when the taxi is full. If you don't want to wait, or are in a bit of rush, a private taxi should cost C$120. As with all taxi rides in the Rivas province, you may need to haggle to get the correct price!

There are very frequent buses from Rivas to SJDS, meaning there's almost always one waiting in the terminal. Usually you'll hear an ayudante shouting 'Rivas, Rrrrrivas, Rivaaaaas'.

The journey time to San Juan del Sur is 45 minutes to an hour, and should cost around $C30 per person. Do note that they may try and charge you for your bag - this is a made-up cost so feel free to stand your ground.

The bus will arrive in the centre of SJDS opposite the market. Alternatively, you can take a private taxi straight from San Jorge to San Juan Del Sur, which isn't a bad option if there's four of you.

Travel Better | 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Ometepe

From Granada

From the centre of Granada walk or take a taxi to this street (here on Google Maps) where you'll find the chicken buses for the Rivas bus terminal. Travel time to Rivas is about 2 hours and the fare is $50-100 per person depending on whether the ayudante feels like overcharging you or not.

If there isn't a direct departure for a while, you're best to get on the next one to Nanadaime (C$20, 30 minutes) and transfer to a Rivas bus along the way.

Find the details on how to get from Rivas to San Juan del Sur in the above section.

Read Later | 13 Wonderful Things To Do In Granada

From Costa Rica

As mentioned, San Juan del Sur is the most common first stop for travellers crossing the border between Costa Rica and Nicaragua. We've written an entire guide to crossing this border at Peñas Blancas, so be sure to check that out before making the journey.

Onward Travel From San Juan del Sur

Wherever you're heading in Nicaragua or Costa Rica, if you're using public transport, you will need to make your back to Rivas.

All the buses park up in the centre of town opposite the market (here on Google Maps), and you'll inevitably here the ayudantes shouting before you see them. Departures are about every half hour or so, and this is also where you'll find a bunch of taxis if you're looking for one.

Renting a Motorbike or ATV in San Juan del Sur

Aside from the practical advantages, It's an experience in and of itself to head out with your own wheels. Inexperienced riders or those here for a short time may not need to due to the affordable daily beach shuttle buses, but those hoping for a day exploring the coastline or more freedom during a longer stay should absolutely consider renting a motorbike in San Juan del Sur.

There are a bunch of companies in town, with prices in the $20-25 USD range for one-day motorbike rental or $40-55 for an ATV. There are some scooters available to rent, but these aren't suitable for many of the dusty roads you'll travel on to reach the remote beaches. You can get long-term rental discounts, and there's a limited stock of bikes available with a surfboard rack.

Based on our personal experience, we can recommend checking out San Juan ATV Rentals (maps). The motorbike rental was $20/day with a $200 credit card deposit, but we got into some trouble going down a horrible hill, resulting in some superficial damage to the brand new bike. The two local guys there could have plucked a number from anywhere for the damage or tried to keep the whole deposit, but instead they were really fair with us from the start and charged $40 cash for the damage, rather than pretending they were going to spend hundreds to replace parts.

Beach Fun Rentals (maps) seemed like decent guys too and have more quads and 4x4 buggies than others, whilst Pepe's Rentals (maps) were also nice when we chatted but only had a small selection of bikes left - they also have cute doggos!

Although there are a bunch of motorbike rental businesses in and around town, we can't really give more recommendations than the above, as every place will be much the same on price and experience unless/until there's a dispute! Wherever you rent, we recommend you take photos of the bike, drive within your limits, and never leave your passport as a deposit (if you do this, they've really got you by the short and curlies in the event of damage or dispute). If uncertain of your abilities, then an ATV is a more stable option than the motorbikes.

There are car rental options in town.

Little Things to Know Before Visiting San Juan del Sur

Itinerary | We've seen mentioned by a number of other bloggers that one of the top things to do in San Juan del Sur is head on a day trip to Granada or Isla de Ometepe, and we just wanted to mention that this is not a great idea as each deserves more of your time - especially Ometepe, which is deceptively large and requires several days to even scratch the surface of! Both are however likely next stops after San Juan Del Sur.

Check out our Ometepe guide and our new Granada guide to plan.

Grocery Shopping | If you choose to stay somewhere with a kitchen (be it your own or a shared one), you can pick up basic groceries plus fresh produce in the central market or alternatively at the large Pali a 10-minute walk from the centre - find it here on Google Maps. There's also a good fruit and veg shop near the corner of Avenida del Parque and Avenida Vanderbuilt, whilst Nica Naturals (maps) is a good shout for more esoteric requirements.

There are several small convenience stores in the heart of SJDS but do note that prices are a little higher than shopping in a big supermarket.

ATMs | The good news is that there are several ATMs in the heart of SJDS - the bad news is that we couldn't get most of them to accept our cards. This includes three in this supermarket, and this one around the corner.

Thankfully, this BAC ATM was functional each and every time we used it and provides withdrawals in both Cordoba and USD.

Unfortunately, as is common across much of Nicaragua, payment by card will often incur an additional fee (usually around 5%), so cash is king.

Currency | Cordoba is the currency in Nicaragua, but you may find that many places (especially accommodations, shuttles and tours) quote prices in US dollars - but you can pay in either.

Begging | San Juan del Sur's popularity means that unfortunately it attracts a number of families that come in by bus from surrounding villages or towns to beg. Whilst we absolutely understand why this happens, this often includes large numbers of young kids that should be in school. We know how tough it is to say no (we feel bad every time), but by giving to the children, it reinforces the idea that they can make more for the family by being out on the streets, rather than getting an education. Supporting programmes like Nicalife and other social enterprises is an alternative way to help, and feel free to let us know in the comments of any others doing good work in and around San Juan Del Sur.

Seedy Tourism | Compared to various places in Asia, the issue is barely present but we do need to note that there was also a creeping sense of sex tourism here, with a number of very young local girls hanging off the arms of very old, white men and a couple of street corners being visible solicitation points.

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Source: https://www.alongdustyroads.com/posts/things-to-do-in-san-juan-del-sur-nicaragua